Peggy's Cove + Polly Cove hike and Graves Island Provincial Park, Nova Scotia

Peggy's Cove lighthouse in distance as we approach

We are up early and at Peggy's Cove shortly after 8 am as we have heard this place can be an animal act. Thankfully there are only a handful of vehicles parked before us so we even strategically pick an outside parking spot so we don't get boxed in later with the truck. 

Peggy's Cove is a world-renowned, picturesque fishing village famous for its iconic 1914 red and white lighthouse perched on massive granite rocks. 

Peggy's Cove Lighthouse in the distance

We walk through the little fishing village and the early morning sun is making everything even more stunning. Local lore suggests the village was named after the lone survivor of a shipwreck, Margaret (Peggy), who was taken in by a local family. 

It's a very unique spot built on huge granite boulders. The community manages to retain a rustic, undeveloped look and still maintains an active lobster fishery while attracting almost three-quarters of a million visitors annually. 

We have it largely to ourselves

The place is forever etched in our minds and we are thankful to visit while we can clamber freely around the granite rocks and embrace the views. We see the tour buses pulling in and get out of Dodge before the mayhem begins :)

Granite is everywhere

Back at the truck we can't believe the mayhem...vehicles are lined up and racing for a parking spot opening up. We head farther east down the road a few kilometres to the Polly Cove hike. It has more spectacular ocean views and granite boulder hopping as we pick our way along somewhat of a trail. 

North Atlantic Ocean

Graffitied old foundation - quite cool :)

We come upon an old cement foundation that is the remains of a small World War II-era military radar facility. It served as an observation station to warn of approaching ships or aircraft entering the Halifax Harbour. 

Highest point around

Eventually we are at the highest point and what is kind of the end of the trail so we just sit enjoying where we are at. 

Heading back west towards our trailer we have to pass the Peggy's Cove entrance again and now the vehicles are parked at least a half kilometre down the road and we can see the lighthouse in the distance is crawling with people like ants. So thankful for our early morning :)

Literally a park on an island

On the way home we stop at Graves Island Provincial Park to eat a late picnic lunch. It's a really nice park that would be nice to spend some time at but...  We have come to the conclusion our trip is a Tapas or sampling of our beautiful country. Even with the time we have given to this trip we can't see it all. 

Views of Mahone Bay and islands from end of park

Causeway on and off the island

We are using up food from the fridge to empty it for our quick trip home for a week. It's still a mighty fine supper. 

Cleaning our the fridge meal

place line

Caribou Munroes Hike + Hector Quay and Concert in Pictou, Nova Scotia

Jelly fish out of water

The morning is spent doing a 1.5 hour out and back beach trail hike. There are so many jelly fish washed up along the shoreline, which will sadly meet their end as they can only be out of water an hour or so and the tide won't be back in for hours. 

Northumberland Ferry

We actually see the NFL ferry we just arrived on late yesterday.

Birthplace of New Scotland

After the beach hike we head into the town of Pictou. It's a lovely little salty, seaside village. 

Love this saying :)

Hector's Quay

The Hector Heritage Quay features a full-scale replica of the ship Hector. The original Hector brought 189 Scottish settlers to Nova Scotia, which was the first major wave of Scottish immigrants to Nova Scotia in 1773. 

Scottish and Mi'kmaq together

It's a great museum reliving the tales of these early settlers and the hardships they faced beginning a new life in a very different land. The Mi'kmaq were the original people living in the area and actually helped the Scottish people survive their first harsh winter by teaching their hunting and trapping knowledge. 

Tartans of Scottish settlers

Deck of ship Hector

The replica was first launched in 2000 but in September 2022 the post-tropical storm of Fiona caused the ship severe damage.It was taken out of the water for a full restoration. In 2025 it was once again floated but it is still being worked on today with a 2028 full relaunch date.

Restored bunks below deck

Hector refloated in 2025

What makes the museum so great is there are people actually working in various locations of the museum that we talk to about the work they are doing for the ships restoration.

Hector in need of a mast

We do a walk about Pictou to see some of the water front sites. 

Boat at center of artisan market

Love this meeting :)

Old lobster fishing boat

Later in the evening we take in a concert at The Pictou deCoste Performing Arts Centre. A great little music venue where Cassie & Maggie, a couple of local Nova Scotia sisters perform. They are Juno Award nominees and Canadian Folk music award winners. Very talented :)

Maggie and Cassie

Kayak and hike in Kouchibouguac National Park, New Brunswick

Kouchibouguac River kayak launch

There is rain coming in the afternoon so we get the kayaks into the Kouchibouguac River early. We paddled out to where the river meets the lagoon and the sand dunes but, we weren't thinking about the coming low tide and end up beached on sand...lol We turn back up the river and have a nice paddle before the rain sets in and we pull out in pouring rain.

The trail out the back of our site has such a canopy of trees that one can walk and barely realise how hard it is raining so that becomes the afternoon activity.

Constellations to see when no rain :)

We are absolutely in the middle of the bush out here so reading it is a Dark Sky preserve makes sense. 

Home is closer than we think :)

Google maps says Banff's Cave and Basin is more like 4500km and Wood Buffalo 5500kms, but those would be the driving distances. Both of these Alberta National Parks are much closer as the crow flies. 

Banff or Kouchibouguac National Park?

The trail is nice and we could very well be hiking in Banff National Park as it has a very similar feel.

AM - Bike the Du Bonc Trail to Cap-des-Rosiers and PM - Hike Mont-Saint-Alban Observation Tower Trail - Forillon National Park, Quebec

Since it is still a bit cloudy this morning, we decide to bike the Du-Bonc Trail to Cap-des-Rosiers Lighthouse and save the hike up to the Mont-Saint-Alban lookout tower until this afternoon when the sun will be shining and we'll have clear 360 degree panoramic views. 

Outboard engines on the fishing trawlers

The boats in this little fishing harbour have all upgraded their motors to massive outboard engines rather than the old inboard diesels. We figure they are much more powerful to get you out and back off the ocean quicker plus, they'd be so much easier to work on when you have a break down. 

Cod fish drying rack and boat winch

We come upon some old cod fish drying racks and an old winch they would use to haul their boats out of the water. 

Carricks shipwreck memorial

Farther along the trail is an Irish Memorial of the shipwreck 'Carricks of Whitehaven', which commemorates 187 Irish emigrants fleeing the Great Famine. All but 48 passengers died when their ship struck a reef in a huge storm off Cap-des-Rosiers on April 28th, 1847. The Carricks was designed for 50 people so it was sadly severely overloaded at the time. 

The black monument in the front of the photo houses remains of some of the Irish emigrants and the brown monument on the right houses the Carricks ship bell, which washed up on a shore, September 24th, 1966, far from the wreck on a beach on Quebec's north shore.

Remains of some of the Irish emigrants

Salt Marsh

A Salt Marsh (Marais Sale) is next along the trail and it is very unique. Fresh water from nearby rivers and the bay intermingles with the saltwater, creating a brackish environment that supports highly specific, highly productive flora and fauna. The coexistence is super fragile and climate change combined with rising sea levels requires Parks Canada to manage the area strictly. 

Birds living in the marsh

The 'Merlin Bird' app we use to identify birds in the area is very useful and we are able to see what birds get to call this place home. It's a lovely place to sit and just listen. 

Chris heading up the tower

After a rest at the trailer we head out to tackle the Mont-Saint-Alban observation tower hike. The sun is actually shining brightly for the first time in days so we have been waiting to see the views we have read about. It's only 1.8 km up and steep up in places but it's a fast trip up and the views make it all worthwhile. 

Cap Gaspe - yesterday's hike

Cap-des-Rosier (left) Cap Gaspe (Right)

Gaspe Bay and Perce Rock in far distance

Mont-Saint-Alban trail - ropes in places

The trip down is fast. 

Iconic Parks Canada red chairs at a lookout point

Cliffs of the Gaspe Bay

One pan lasagna

Home for one pan lasagna that turns out amazing! Happy Father's Day Chris