Friday, 31 July 2026

Maritime Museum of the Atlantic - Titanic and Halifax Explosion Graveyard/Memorial Halifax, Nova Scotia - Emotional Day

Alexander Keith's Brewery
We leave our VRBO with our luggage in tote as we'll head to our rig later today. Thankfully the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic has agreed for us to store our luggage there for the day so we won't be hindered. The walk along Lower Water Street to the museum passes 'The Alexander Keith's Nova Scotia Brewery'. Founded in 1820 by Scottish immigrant Alexander Keith,it is one of the oldest working breweries in North America. Darn, would have been a cool tour. 

Nova Scotian Crystal Mural

Maritime Museum of the Atlantic

War Memorial 

The Maritime Museum of the Atlantic far exceeds anything we expected. Canada's oldest and largest maritime museum with a collection of over 30,000 artifacts highlighting Nova Scotia's marine history and the World Wars. 



Model ships aplenty

SS Franconia

There is a 'Days of Sail' gallery with all sorts of model ships and even a sail loft display. 

Sail loft

Blue - SS IMO  Red - SS Mont-Blanc
Just recently we learned of the 1917 Halifax Explosion disaster. The First World War turned Nova Scotia's port of Halifax into a boom town. The ice free harbour was the perfect departure point for ships carrying troops to Europe and the wounded back home. 

On the morning of December 6, 1917, in the Narrows - the strait connecting Bedford Basin to Halifax Harbour,  the Norwegian vessel SS Imo, (outbound for New York to pick up cargo), and the French munitions ship SS Mont-Blanc, (inbound to join a convoy headed for Europe), collided. The collision set off an explosion unrivalled until the atomic bomb. Thousands of people were killed, an entire neighbourhood was destroyed and thousands more left homeless. 

SS Mont-Blanc was a floating bomb

Mont-Blanc's holds were stuffed with explosive TNT - the ship was a floating bomb. When the ships collided, Mont-Blanc's hold was pierced and fire started quickly. The fire super-heated the hull and at 9:04 am a massive explosion all but wiped out Richmond and heavily damaged the surrounding areas.

Back when we were in PEI, a guy we met talked about the windows of grandma's house blown out that day. The blast killed more than 1,600 people instantly and the devastation was immeasurable. The city was in chaos and to make things worse it snowed 40 cms overnight. 

40 cms of snow overnight after the explosion

CNIB created

The first 10 days of rescue and recovery were apparently super-human. It is clear the scars remain as the city is peppered with monuments to the victims. 

Sadly the explosion caused the largest mass-blinding in Canadian history, shattering thousands of windows into people's faces as they looked out at the unfolding events of that day. The catastrophic surge in sudden blindness directly inspired the founding of the Canadian National Institute for the Blind (CNIB) in 1918. 






Model of Titanic
There is also a permanent RMS Titanic collection and Halifax's role in the recovery efforts. The massive, luxury British ocean liner said to be 'unsinkable' sank in the Atlantic Ocean during its maiden voyage from Southampton to New York City. 


Enjoying the deck chairs on the Titanic - she's unsinkable :)

The Titanic's Grand Staircase

The Titanic sinks

The ship hit an iceberg around 11:40 pm on April 14th that tore open six of its watertight compartments. The ship could only stay afloat with four flooded so April 15th, 1912 at 2:20 am the Titanic officially went down. It did not have enough lifeboats for everyone on board so about 1500 people lost their lives, many from freezing.  


Shockingly many of the lifeboats held very few people as passengers initially refused to leave the seemingly safe, warm liner to get into small, wooden boats hanging high above the dark freezing water. What a shame. In the rescue efforts, the dead were transported to Halifax and the living went to New York. 

Dead to Halifax  Alive to New York

It's all very overwhelming. This truly is one of the best museums we have seen in our travels. 

Marigold Kitchen

We stop for a quick meal at 'The Marigold Kitchen' as it gets 5 star reviews all around. Wow, what a meal and we are treated so kindly by the dad and son team working there. We are genuinely interested in their story and our kindness is rewarded as along with our donairs, they give us free soup samples and complimentary drinks. If ever in Halifax...look them up.

Sam - dad at Marigold Kitchen

Fairview Lawn Cemetery
To end our sombre day, we make a trip to the Fairview Lawn Cemetery, which houses both RMS Titanic vicitims (121 individuals, arranged in the shape of a ship's hull) and a mass grave containing unidentified victims of the 1917 Halifax Explosion






Titanic victims

Down with the ship bravery





Halifax explosion memorial

Mass grave


Memorial Bell Tower

Finally we stop by the 'Halifax Explosion Memorial Bell Tower'. Completed in 1985, it is a 60-foot-tall concrete structure in Fort Needham Memorial Park, which overlooks the harbour of the fateful explosion. It is meant to honour the nearly 2000 people killed and 9000 injured in the December 6th, 1917 ship collision in Halifax Harbour. 

What a day of remembering and reflecting as to why we are doing this trip. Live each day like it's your last as you never know what will happen tomorrow :)

Thursday, 30 July 2026

Citadel National Historic Site - Busker Festival - Ferry to Dartmouth - Halifax, Nova Scotia

Historic buildings 
For thousands of years, long before European arrival, the Halifax area was home to the Mi'kmaq people. Then came the French fur traders, fishermen and missionaries before the British established a strategic military stronghold where Halifax became the capital of Nova Scotia in 1749 - almost 300 years ago. This explains the stunning old historic buildings everywhere within the waterfront core.

Dalhousie University founded February 1818


Construction of the Halifax Citadel began immediately in 1749 to protect the new British settlement against French forces.  It is a star-shaped hilltop fortress overlooking Halifax Harbour that has been rebuilt four times due to rot, climate and changing military needs, culminating in the 1856 stone-and-earth star fort. 

Citadel entrance

Moat


Inside fort walls


Stone-and-Earth Star Fort

Designated a national historic site in 1935, it serves as a living history museum with artillery re-enactments, people in period costumes and the 78th Highlanders Pipe Band.
78th Highlander Pipe Band

Historic buildings along the boardwalk

Next we wander down to the Halifax waterfront. 


Great places to sit and chill

Stretching nearly 4.5 kilometres it is one of the world's longest urban boardwalks, connecting historic properties, museums and local dining along a scenic working harbour.


Alderney Ferry to Dartmouth

We hop the foot passenger ferry from downtown Halifax to Dartmouth for a quick look about. It only takes about 10 minutes to get across. 

View of Halifax from the Alderney Ferry

Mural in Dartmouth

After a bowl of seafood chowder at Evan's Seafood, we walk around the waterfront and a few streets. It is pretty quiet on this side of the water :)

Tanker passes under the Angus L. Macdonald Bridge



A couple of Brit's putting on a show

Back on the Halifax side the 40th annual Busker Festival is in full swing. Pancho Libre from Mexico won the 'People's Choice Award' in 2025. We think he will win again this year as no one we saw compared to his strength and talent. Amazing. 

Pancho Libre from Mexico



Gorch Fock German Tall Ship

The 'Gorch Fock" is a massive German Tall Ship on the Halifax waterfront tonight. There are a lot of people dressed in stark white uniforms and fancy dressed people boarding the ship. Who knows what event is happening but it is one impressive ship. 




George's Island

We opt out of the ferry to George's Island. Fort Charlotte was constructed on the island in 1750 but we just admire it from the Halifax shore. 





Another massive ship on the Halifax water front

It's been a long day exploring Halifax. We head to a pub and share a pint of beer before heading to our VRBO. 

Wednesday, 29 July 2026

YYC Calgary, Alberta to YWG Winnipeg, Manitoba to YHZ Halifax, Nova Scotia

 

YYC - Calgary

We are on the 9:15 am flight from Calgary to Winnipeg, which takes about 1.5 hours. It's actually nice to stretch our legs and then get right back on the same plane. 
YWG - Winnipeg

YHZ - Halifax

After a quick layover we are off again for the last 3.5 hours to Halifax. We arrive just after 6 pm local time. (3 hours ahead of Alberta)





Murray MacKay Bridge - Halifax to Dartmouth

We have decided that rather than drive into downtown Halifax every day, it will be easier to get a VRBO for a couple nights close to the waterfront and see the city from a walking perspective, so the truck and trailer stay at the storage lot for now. 

Our VRBO on Barrington Street

Old Burying Grounds

Once our luggage is in the apartment, we head off for the evening. Just down the street is 'The Old Burying Grounds', which is a historic 1749 cemetery featuring 18th-century gravestone art. Filled to capacity in 1844 with notable burials like Major General Robert Ross, who led the 1814 raid on Washington, DC.

18th-century gravestone art

4 block pedestrian street

The streets are colourful with steep ups and downs. One would be in great shape with regular walking in this place :)
So true :)

Chris, Tom and Christine 

We find The Old Triangle Irish Ale House and settle in at the bar for the live music. Tom and Christine are visiting the area from Florida and we have a great time with them. A friend back home told Chris to have a Black Bush Irish Whiskey. We mention the whiskey name to Tom and he knows it well. Before we know it he has bought a round. Very kind.

Bit of fog settling in as we walk home.


Popular Posts