Bobcaygeon - Hub of the Kawarthas

Today, we had a chore to do before departing the Beavermead town campsite in Peterborough. Our trailer has two 40 gal holding tanks, one for dish and shower water, called "grey water", and the other is for "black water" (connected to the toilet). The grey water tank lasts about 1 week before a sanitation station dump is required, and the black water tank can go two weeks. However, we usually dump when convenient, every 4 or 5 days.  But ... you get build up and a periodic super-flush is always nice, and today, as we had a water tap and a sani-dump handy, was the day for a little tank maintenance. (I know, TMI - Chris's addition to the blog :))

Next up and continuing on with our visits to some of the Towns of the Trent Severn Waterway was a stop at the town of Bobcaygeon, Lock 32 on the Trent Severn and about 45min drive NW of Peterborough. Bobcaygeon is a town mentioned in Tragically Hip's song with the same name. From Wikipedia, lead singer, the late Gord Downie explained, the song was not specifically written about the town itself, but rather any small town would have worked for the song theme and he settled on "Bobcaygeon" primarily because it was the only place name he could find that came close to rhyming with and with a similar cadence as "constellation."  

When I left your house this mornin'

It was a little after nine

It was in Bobcaygeon, I saw the constellations

Reveal themselves one star at a time

Nevertheless, the town embraced its recognition in the song and has since held many fundraisers for Brain Cancer Research - the disease that took Gord Downey in October of 2017. The town also gets a considerable amount of notoriety and tourist traffic following the Tragically Hip's connection to the town. 

Picture of a picture - Bobcaygeon circa 1905

We walk around the main street shops and talk with a friendly local who tells us his favorite restaurants and where there might be live music tonight.  

Bobcaygeon 2025

Bobcaygeon from an artists perspective :)

We hear and see something organized going on near one of the locks, so we walk over to see what's up. There was a fishing tournament weigh-in by the lock so we watch the sportsmen present their catches (large and smallmouth bass, still alive).  It was a very windy, hence rough day on the water, and some of the fellas look pretty tired. 

Our favorite team - yes they were Dutch :)

Boats mulling about before and after weigh-in

Interestingly, we learn that all the caught fish go into a special tank after weight-in, which has oxygen added and then they are all released back to the lake once they have had time to de-stress.  The mortality rate at a sport fishing derby is very very low. 

Lock 32 of 45 in total

Trent-Severn Waterway

Walking along the lock quaysides, which are buzzing with boating activity, we stop to talk for a spell with a couple who own a beautiful red 36-ft American tug. They cruise every year May to October predominantly in the Georgian Bay / North Channel. They are finishing for the season, and are taking the Trent Severn waterway back home. 

Picture of a picture capturing the sunsets around here

Found the restaurant called Graz and indeed they will have live music at 7:30pm so we head in early and score a nice window seat. We both order the prime rib panini for supper and enjoy some craft beers.

Bobcaygeon Dockside Red Ale

EZJay

We sit next to a couple of TO cottagers and enjoyed the guitarist EZJay. This guy sang and played for over 2.5 hours non stop. His fingers must have been bleeding in the end! Everything from the Eagles and Bon Jovi to Blue Rodeo. So good. 

The crowd was really into it. Very enjoyable and a quick walk back to our trailer. Night 

Cobourg to Peterborough - known as the Kawarthas district of Ontario

 

New tires 

An 8 am appointment at the tire shop in Cobourg gets us new tires and ready to roll again. 

Lake Ontario

Before we leave Cobourg, we walk down to Lake Ontario for one final look. The wind is howling today so it is not the lovely glass calm we had a few days back on the beach at Sandbanks Provincial Park. It's quite nasty out there and there would be no swimming today. 

Soon we are on the road to Peterborough and before lunch we pull into Beavermead Park Campground. It's a great central location to explore the city being close to the Peterborough Lift Lock and all the great bike trails. 

Ashburnham Lock 20

After setting up we unload the bikes and head out. We were hoping to kayak the Otonabee River section of the Trent-Severn Waterway, but the winds are really blowing today.

Lock 20 is the lock immediately before the lift lock.

Lock 21 - The Peterborough Lift Lock

Lock 21 - The Peterborough Lift Lock, is the impressive hydraulic lift lock that is the main attraction in Peterborough. Unfortunately the wind is so strong today that the lift lock is shut down. We actually took our sailboat, Tioga, through the Strepy-Thieu Boat lift lock in Belgium so we know how they work. 

The Belgium lock lifted us 73.15 meters (240 ft)  while the Peterborough lock lifts boats 19.8 meters (65 ft) so a huge height difference. Both lift a boat a long way in a single lift so it's a huge help when travelling on a river. 

Views of the Peterborough Lift lock from the walkway inside

There is an alternating traffic- one way - vehicle passage through the lift lock with a super narrow walk way along side it. We walk our bikes through as the passage way is super narrow. One wrong move and you'd be tossed in front of a car. 

More views of lift from the inside lane

Upper level of the Peterborough Lift Lock

We come out the other side of the lift and head up to where boats are raised to on the upper level of the waterway. This lift lock is basically an elevator that transports boats between the lower and upper levels.

Peterborough, On

We continue around the bikes trail and streets to the core of Peterborough. As in all of these old historic towns, there are beautiful old buildings. 

One of Peterborough's Brew Pubs

The Ashburnham Ale House is calling so we head in for a craft beer. We choose the Bobcaygeon Dockside Red Ale before heading back to the RV for the night. 

 

Side trip to Cobourg, Ontario

In need of new RV tires

It rained hard over night and it's still raining this morning so we get some work done. Then it's a detour day back to Lake Ontario to the town of Cobourg. Chris was doing a tire inspection and we are in need of some new RV tires asap. 

Town of Hastings - Kayak on the Trent River - Backgammon in the park

 

Town of Hastings

After lunch we head to the Town of Hastings, another one of the Trent-Severn trail towns. We feel all these little towns are very British. Many towns in Southern Ontario are named after towns in England, a common practice during the colonial era when English settlers named new locations after their homeland. 

Many beautiful old homes

We park at the local Hastings Village Marina for the day. Once again we unload the kayaks for a paddle up the Trent River from lock 18 on the Trent-Severn waterway. 

Swing bridge open for the summer

Just upstream is a swing bridge, which is part of the Trans-Canada trail. It is swung open for the entire summer season so boats can pass anytime of the day. Apparently in late October the bridge will swing closed for the winter and it becomes part of a popular snowmobiling trail. It's hard to imagine this place with snow :)

Lily pads 

Chris does some fishing while I paddle farther upstream and enjoy the natural surroundings. It's a beautiful, blue sky day. 

After kayaking we have a break and then unload the bikes to tour the little town. Every one of these towns has numerous massive churches, many looking exactly like the town before. 

WW 1 Memorial Mural

Backgammon with G&T's

Back at the marina and RV, we make a G&T and have a few games of backgammon in the glorious sun along the canal. 

Lock 18 in the Town of Hastings, ON

Earlier today the marina manager told us we could actually spend the night here in the marina parking lot. A free night of camping with these views...sign us up.  

RIP to a great friend Gerry

Chris, Gerry, Natalie and Sheila in Arizona

More sad news for us as a long time friend, Gerry, passed early this morning from his battle with cancer. I've known Gerry since I was a kid on the farm and our families farmed back and forth. I used to curl with Gerry and went to school with his wife Natalie . Then Chris and I would visit Gerry and Natalie in Arizona and a game or two of golf when home in Alberta. A very kind hearted family man was taken far to early. RIP Gerry. 

Sandbanks Winery tasting

Once again we try to carry on with heavy hearts. Prince Edward County Island is known for its wineries so we stop in at Sandbanks Estate Winery and even though it is barely noon, we do a 3 variety tasting and raise our glasses to Gerry:). It's quite nice so we buy 3 bottles.

Nice old barn along the way

Trent-Severn waterway

We come to Trenton, the town on Lake Ontario where the Trent Severn waterway begins. It is a series of lakes that have been connected by man-made canals and locks to make it possible to travel by boat all the way from Lake Ontario to the Georgian Bay. This is the first of several little towns that are known as the Trent Severn towns.

Spin bridge opens for a sail boat to pass through

Samuel de Champlain and his explorer entourage passed through here in the early 1600's.

Ferris Provincial Park

We head to Ferris Provincial Park for the night. The campground is very odd with disheveled very unlevel sites. Thankfully we are only here a night.

Ranney Gorge Suspension Bridge

We unload our bikes and find the Ranney Gorge Suspension bridge. The bridge takes us across the Trent River to the sleepy Town of Campbellford. 

Trent River running through Campbellford

The Giant Toonie in Old Mill Park

Earlier today we met someone who told us not to miss the Giant Toonie. Chris tries to take it with us :)

Back at the RV we BBQ a nice steak and open the nice bottle of wine bought earlier at Sandbanks and spend the evening remembering our times with Gerry and Natalie:)

Sandbanks Provincial Park on Prince Edward County Island

Loyalist Parkway

We head west and get on a quaint highway that is called the Loyalist Parkway. Highway 33 runs from Kingston to Trenton, our destination in a couple days. It's a heritage route built along the settlement paths of the United Empire Loyalists after the American Revolution. So much history everywhere.   

Old bikes live on :)

Waiting in line for the Glenora Ferry, a free 15 minute crossing to get us onto Prince Edward County Island. I love what these guys have done with their old bikes. I have my original mountain bike that one day I hope lands itself in a garden like this. 

Glenora Ferry to Prince Edward County Island

We pull the truck mirrors in and roll onto the ferry with inches to spare on each side. It reminds us of a Greek ferry we were on years ago. At least this one I can squish sideways out the door for the ride, the Greek ferry years ago we literally had to crawl out the van windows as the doors could not open. 

Dunes Beach

Sandbanks Provincial Park thankfully has a spot for us and after we get set up we immediately check out the three main beaches, Dunes, Outlet and Lakeshore. Dunes Beach is very unique with the dunes all around the beach for kids to play in and Outlet Beach is super big and busy. 

Lakeshore beach

We choose Lakeshore Beach to actually take some time to chill out and relax. The sand is glorious, there are way less people and the water is lovely for a couple refreshing swims. We think we are pretty fortunate to have such a calm day on Lake Ontario :)

Sun tent works really well

Soft, warm sand

Sun setting on Lake Ontario

We brought with us tea, drinks, snacks and a blanket in order to stay here until the sun has set. It really is nice to chill with the busy schedule we have had combined with the loss of  Sophie that will fade in time but will never leave us.  

Beautiful sun set on calm waters of Lake Ontario. Once again we are reminded how fortunate we are to be doing a trip like this.

Happy 65th birthday to my sister, Karen. Love you to the moon and back :)