Friday, 11 July 2025

North-West Resistance of 1885 - Battle of Duck Lake / Batoche - On to Saskatoon

When we wake up this morning the smoke from fires burning in Manitoba has rolled in. Though the picture doesn't show it the sun is bright orange and our views are restricted.

View out our bedroom window

Very recently, through her son Gerrit's research, Sheila learned her mom's family is a direct descendant of Gabriel Dumont, the Metis Resistance leader who fought along side Louis Riel, so today our mission is to follow part of the trail of the North West Resistance of 1885. We leave Fort Carlton, on route to the grounds of The Battle of Duck Lake, and imagine we are on the route travelled by the North-West Mounted Police (NWMP).

On the North-West Resistance trail

The Battle of Duck Lake, is considered the first significant engagement of the North-West Resistance and a crucial event in Metis History. It highlighted the grievances of the Metis and indigenous peoples and their determination to fight for their rights and land, which was being divided up in a sale of land from The Hudson's Bay Company to Canada. These two authorities took little care to negotiate or guarantee Metis title to the lands they had been living on for many years.

 Battle of Duck Lake monument

The Battle of Duck Lake happened on March 26th, 1885. Metis leader, Gabriel Dumont, and his forces met against the NWMP and their volunteer forces led by Superintendent Leif Crozier. Dumont's forces estimated at 250-300, outnumbered Croziers, which consisted of around 100.

The battle resulted in casualties on both sides, including, Isodore Dumont, the older brother of Gabriel Dumont, during a parley before the main fighting began. After about 30 minutes of intense fighting the NWMP retreated back to Fort Carlton due to heavy casualties on their side. The Metis were victorious that day. 

Just a bit farther down the road is the Duck Lake Regional Interpretive Center. It is a really great collection of art and artifacts, plus it reveals the entire Duck Lake Battle chain of events.

Duck Lake Regional Interpretive Center

 
 Isodore Dumont - first casualty at the Battle of Duck Lake
This photo stands outside the Duck Lake 
Regional Interpretive Center.



Inside the museum is a lot of reading with respect to the accounts of what was happening at the time interspersed with local art and history. It's all very complicated but our take away is the East has always taken advantage of the West...still to this day. 

There is beautiful art and artifacts on each of the North, South, East and West Walls. 

North wall 

Back in the day...

Who knew??

A hero in these parts

Willow chair made by Gabriel Dumont


Prior to the Battle of Duck Lake with increasing land dispute pressure, the Metis had sent a delegation to Montana to ask Louis Riel to return and represent them. Riel had already successfully lead the Metis in the Red River Resistance of 1869-1870 where he negotiated with the Canadian government and played a key role in the creation of the province of Manitoba. 
Riel returned in 1884 and along with Gabriel Dumont, established a provisional government in Batoche in 1885 to assert their rights and challenge the federal government. 

Next stop is Batoche where the final battle of the North-West Resistance took place from May 9-12th, 1885. We hope to get there by taking the ferry at St Laurent but when we get there Chris is concerned we may drag and damage our RV when we load onto the ferry as there are significant bumps and humps.

Car ferry at St. Laurent

We back track and get back on track for Batoche, which takes us across Gabriel's Bridge. Gabriel Dumont operated a ferry service in the area from the early 1870's to 1883. In 1969 his ferry crossing was replaced with the Gabriel Dumont Bridge and carries highway 312 over the South Saskatchewan River. 

Highway 312 over South Saskatchewan River




Gabriel Dumont Bridge

We arrive at Batoche National Historic Site and spend the afternoon inside the interpretive center and walking about the grounds that would be Louis Riel's and Gabriel Dumont's last stand during the North-West Resistance. The final battle at Batoche took place from May 9-12, 1885. This four day battle saw Metis and First Nations forces, led by Louis Riel and Gabriel Dumont, defending Batoche against the North-West Field Force commanded by Major-General Frederick Middleton. 

Batoche National Historic Site - Canadian + Metis Flags flying side by side

This life size poster of Louis Riel stands outside the museum with his words:
"We did not rebel, we defended and maintained rights, which we enjoyed and had neither forfeited nor sold"

Louis Riel



Inside the Batoche exhibit are many very cool exhibits including this buffalo skinning scene after the hunt. 

Women skinned the buffalo after the kill

There is lots of amazing artwork

We have fun with this board asking "How are you related to Batoche?

I am Metis and related to Gabriel Dumont.  S.R.

We walk out onto the grounds and down to this original church built in 1883.

The Saint-Antoine-de-Padoue Church

Both Louis Riel and Gabriel Dumont were present at Batoche until the Battle of Batoche. Despite initial success using trenches and rifle pits, the Metis, running low on ammunition, were eventually overwhelmed. The battle ended with the capture of Batoche, the Metis Capital. 



Views of the South Saskatchewan River from where the battle occurred


Louis Riel surrendered three days after the Battle of Batoche to Canadian forces on May 15, 1885,  not to flee, but to fulfill what he believed was his duty to God, his council, and his people. He aimed to use the trial as a platform to defend his actions and the Metis cause. 

The day after Riel's surrender, Gabriel escaped to the United States to avoid capture, but never gave up hope of liberating Riel. He devised a plan to break Riel out of the Regina jail but authorities learned of the plan and increased Riel's security making escape impossible. 

Louis Riel's trial polarized English and French Canada. In the end, on August 1, 1885, he was convicted of high treason. While the jury found him guilty, they also recommended mercy. Despite the recommendation, Riel was sentenced to death by hanging.  He was hung and died November 16th, 1885. He is buried at Saint Boniface Cathedral cemetery in Winnipeg. We will search for his gravesite farther down the road. 

Gabriel Dumont returned to Canada in the early 1890's after being granted amnesty and permanently settled back in Batoche in 1893. He died peacefully in his bed on May 19, 1906. His gravesite stands in the The Saint-Antoine-de-Padoue Church cemetery and it's a true honor to stand beside it. We have learned so much in the past couple days. 


Gabriel Dumont's gravesite

Saint-Antoine-de-Padoue Church in the distance


Unknown set of graves in the cemetery

Our mission to travel the North-West Resistance trail is complete and we feel great about all we have learned. We hit the road for Saskatoon feeling satisfied with our efforts. 

The Canola Crush plant our long time friends, Rick and Mariann, own and operate in Saskatoon is on the way into the city so we decide to make a quick stop. We already know they are sadly not here this week as they live in Calgary, but at least we get to see what they talk about. 

Rich and Mariann's canola crush plant

We arrive at the Gordie Howe campground just after 6 pm. It's very nice with large sites. 


We spend about an hour cleaning as the dust from numerous gravel roads is in everything! Then we drive to Broadway Street to see about quaffing a cool drink. We are surprised to find Joni Mitchell is originally from Saskatoon :)

Joni Mitchell - a great Canadian singer

We find the 3 Hall Public House and enjoy cold drinks on the outdoor patio. 

Yummy refreshing drinks

On the way back to the campsite we decide to stop at the Saskatoon Jazz Festival happening at Victoria Park just down the river from where we are camped. 

SaskTel Saskatchewan Jazz Festival

We catch the last three songs of the musician on stage and then head back to the RV after a very full day. 








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